Coats, Works in Progress

Stardust Coat: Part One

On to the next coat!

I am also working away on the personal statement to accompany these in my grad school applications, which is like moving mountains with my brain. I haven’t had to write an artist’s statement, or any sort of solid explication of my work and motivations, well, since graduating last time I guess. It was always my least favorite part, prone to causing tantrums and rage, but I’m all grown up now or something, so no stomping feet and crying. Ok maybe just a SMALL tantrum.

The next coat has been dubbed the Stardust Coat. It has occurred to me that all the ideas I have lined up so far are all inspired by books or characters in books, which, given how much the aforementioned personal statement talks about the importance of STORY in my work, seems appropriate.

Since the last one was all blacks, it seemed right to make this one of light tones. I was originally going to work in straight WHITE, but I found this pretty pearl-color upholstery velvet and had to get it. Guess all-white will have to wait.

Image

The Dream coat was worked in individual pieces, all the applique running vertical. I thought this time I’d try running some applique across the body. This is somewhat tricky, running cross-ways across curved seams, but I’m giving it a go. Here’s some layout experiments. I did this for about an hour in different combinations, then scrapped the whole thing.

Image

Eventually I settled on a few pieces of applique, with more focus on the stitching, trying some new things from the last one.

Image

5

Added in some hand-drawn elements on this one, too. These are the back pieces…
7

8

…and a similar treatment to the front.

9

Here’s the body so far. Back and sides are sewn together, with iridescent contrast panels in the back vent and box pleat. Pocket are installed, with contoured welts. The body stitching is done in either plain white or silver iridescent thread, and all the seams are top-stitched.

10

13

16

17

18

Next up, the sleeves and hood attack!

xo

Advertisements
Standard
Coats

The Dream Coat: Part Four– Finished!

The beast has been vanquished, and the Dream coat is finally done! Overall I’m quite pleased with it. I learned a lot: messed some things up, asked and answered a lot of questions, and then made more questions. It’s very comfortable to wear and feels solid like armor with all that quilting. Dream armor. I hope it lives up to its inspiration. I wanted it to feel like a story; like every time you look at it you notice some new detail, some new secret.

Here’s a shot when it was still missing collar and sleeves. You can see some of the quilting of insanity.

29

Detail shot. Note the pocket flaps– I think they turned out pretty nicely.

18

I also inherited some wonderful brass buttons that seemed to have arrived just for this project.

9

Here it is in all it’s glory:

16

12

17

15

7

21

10

Sleeve detail. The two stripes are a bit of an artist’s mark– I thought I might make them a common thread (haha) on all the coats. They represent the old magpie rhyme:

One for sorrow,

Two for joy,

Three for a girl,

Four for a boy,

Five for silver,

Six for gold,

Seven for a secret,

Never to be told.

22

6

Truth be told, I rather liked the secret-never-to-be-told, but seven was a bit more than I could deal with. So joy it is.

Back detail. I vented it in the shoulders and gave it a box pleat at the tail. I drafted both of these into the pattern and they were one of the toughest parts, having never done them before and adding them in– there was a lot of “what the hell am I doing… please please please don’t let me mess it up”  Hopefully the next ones will be a bit more graceful. Many thanks to all the wonderful bloggers out there whose tutorials, tips and tricks helped save my sanity on this.

13

14

Some lining detail. You can see the top on my hem facing there because I fucked up. Pleat fail. Everything is ruined.

4

5

The front facings are more simple and have silver flames and stars embroidered on. There’s a bit of ribbon piping between lining and facing as well.

8

And here you can see the hidden inner pocket. Because pockets!

20

Detail of the inner collar. The collar stands up, so this is rarely visible. It’s meant as a secret moment just for the wearer; something just for you. It’s a quote from Sandman and reads:

“Sometimes you wake up.

Sometimes the fall kills you.

And sometimes, when you fall, you fly.”

19

So it’s done. Sweet dreams.

xo

 

 

Standard
Coats, Works in Progress

Dream Coat: Part Three–Fabric Explosion!

I’m started on the outer layer of the coat. I found a nice black-patterned bottomweight for the base layer and have cut out the MILLION pieces, so now they are ready to get all artsy.

Laying out fabric like a bawss.

Image

So many pins… so very many pins…

Image

Image

Image

This was my workspace/bed a few days ago…

Image

…and this is it a few days later.

Image

This part of the work is not exactly tedious, but it’s this weird, non-verbal sort of brain work. After a day of this I am pretty incapable of coherent speech. I communicate largely through strange sounds and hand gestures. I am pretty much an ewok.

The good thing is I get to listen to a lot of audio-books while I do it, just to remind my brain what words are. So far I’ve “read” The Giver by Lois Lowry, The Ocean at the End of the Lane by Neil Gaiman (how appropriate),  Telegraph Avenue by Michael Chabon, The Casual Vacancy, by J.K. Rowling, and Heart-Shaped Box by Joe Hill. Several of these were read by British narrators, so at least my squeaky ewok noises sound posh and classy.

I’m attaching all the strips and scraps with lots and lots of stitching. Ungodly amounts of stitching. I may actually be liking the back more than the front at this moment.

23

25

Here you can see the chalk layout for some of the quilting:

26

Then, because I can’t get enough quilting action, apparently, I thought I’d try sewing flame patterns on the bottom section of the pieces. Remember that whole bit about Dream’s cloak being all flames inside? I wanted to bring a bit of that to the outside as well, so I stitched in flames in red metallic thread. I don’t have a picture of that yet but here’s the chalk layouts.

27

The red thread is much more subtle– you  have to really get up close and look before you notice that it is laying out flames. I felt a little torn on putting in so much stitch work that is so subtle, but it’s all a learning process, right? If I hate it or it isn’t worth it I won’t do it again. And in any case I’m taking the attitude that all these details, however subtle, are adding to the overall majesty of the piece. Right? Of course.

That’s all for now. It’s weirdly hot-yet-cloudy in Boulder today, which I think is a sign that ice cream should be sought. OBVIOUSLY.

Standard
Coats, Works in Progress

Dream Coat: Part Two–Lining

I started in on the lining first– seemed easier, I think. I was probably wrong.

I thought it would be nice to work the flames inside Dream’s cloak into the lining, so I decided to hand-dye it. I got a really nice flannel-back satin for the lining, which I KNEW was going to be hell to dye but I decided to go for it anyway.

I apologize to my husband and kitchen.

Here’s the first go. I used a mix of I-Dye Poly and Rit, to try to deal with the mix of poly and cotton in the fabric.

Image

Note the curious dog face in the corner.

Image

I was tricked by the “wet fabric” effect into thinking that several colors were darker and more saturated than they truly were. As a result, I re-dipped several sections of the lining and the whole process took about two (long, messy) days.

Second dip!

Image

Image

Once it dried, it was a lot lighter, of course, but it turned out rather pretty overall, I think. The flannel-back satin has an interesting effect because the flannel backing takes the color much better than the satin, so there is a sort of interesting sheen effect of the light satin with this darker base.
20

21

The pictures didn’t capture the orange bottom very well–it is light but is much richer and prettier than it is appearing here.  Bah.

22

Next: Into the abyss of fabric experimentation on the outer coat. I’ve realized I’m a bit paralyzed with uncertainty, so I’m going to take a slug of bourbon and just start. Caution to the wind! Into the breach!

Standard
Coats, Works in Progress

The Dream Coat (yes, THAT Dream)

To use the most-uttered statement in the world of WordPress–I’ve been remiss in my blogging.

I’ve been working. And taking pictures. But they have been just sitting on various devices, making rude faces at me, building up into a big ol’ guilt-mountain. UNTIL TODAY. Today, gentle reader, I have ventured into the wilds of Pekoe Sip House, where dude-bros discussing au pairs and Muy Thai rub elbows with white women in head-scarves doing dramatic chakra-blessings over their rooibos. I am not kidding. And it is only 8:30 am.

I have fueled myself with chai (with real milk, because I am going promptly to hell) and will now endeavor to sort out some of what I’ve been doing lately. I may need more chai.

A bit of foundation– feel free to skip this and go straight to pretty pictures. I’m in the process of building up a portfolio to apply to grad school, to continue to study the sartorial arts, or the artsy sartorials. One of those.  I’m building the crux of this portfolio around coats– sort of a conceptual bee I’ve had in my (shiny) bonnet for quite a while and have probably talked at you about before. Basically I have some ideas for pieces that are both art and garment, but it’s a lot of ideas in a lot of uncharted territory and I pretty much have no idea what I’m doing but I have faith it shall be, if not awesome, at least interesting.  So that’s the WHY of it.

I started with the Purple Scrappy Coat, which I still haven’t finished. It pretty much taught me just enough to know that I wanted to make the whole thing from scratch and have control over the shape and style of the coat. I may have control issues.

So I made the Piped Damask Coat to begin learning about that. I should mention that I am not, at this present moment, expecting to become a master tailor. Tailoring is an intense craft that, frankly, scares the shit out of me, so while I intend to pick up as much knowledge and skill as possible, please don’t mistake this for me being all “I’m a tailor now!” That’s like drawing a stick figure and then introducing yourself as an artist.  But I digress…

The newest project is inspired by The Sandman. That’s right, this guy:

Image

Isn’t he just DREAMY?

(i’m sorry.)

Image

If you don’t know the Sandman books, go read them all, right now, then come back. These books have been HUGELY influential in my life, and if I could pick ANY ONE LIVING, FAMOUS PERSON to be friends with, it would absolutely be Neil Gaiman. I have even drawn this wonderful alternate reality: It’s me and Neil drinking tea and discussing books and dogs and the magic of small things, all while taking a lovely jog, and we don’t spill a drop, no not a one.

1557444_530435682188_1811579360_n

Right. Fangirling over. I am so embarrassed.

I thought to myself, “If I were the Lord of Dreams, what would I wear?” so it’s the Dream Coat… no technicolor involved.

Here’s some of the first sketches.

ImageImage

Lots of doodle of pockets and sleeves…

Image

Dream is pretty much tall, dark and handsome. Emphasis on dark. He’s a bit of a mope sometimes, but you love him anyway. He makes my inner goth very happy. He’s always in black, so I’m thinking black on black on black for the coat, clearly. However, his cloak is all flames on the inside, so I want to work in an element of that as well.

I picked a very nice Burda pattern as the base pattern to mock up a muslin in. I’m basically taking the shape and sleeves of this coat and altering the hell out of it.

Point A:

Image

 I drafted a new collar, added a hood, lengthened and changed the sleeves, added inseam pockets, added pleats to the back and changed the hemline. Pray for me that it goes together alright at the end.ImageImage

Lots of alterations and bourbon went into this pattern.Image

It should be a lot closer to this now.

Point B:

Image

Next– into the (fabric) breach! Stay tuned!

Standard
Uncategorized

Coats 101

It is finally time for me to make a coat.

Coats (and jackets) are probably my favorite garments; there’s something very security-blanket-meets-armor about a good coat. And I have been afraid to try making one. So many pieces! So many details! So many notions! Interfacing! Buttons–what?! And what the hell is wiggan? But I’m going to do it. I believe I ranted at length about it in this post, but the direction I am wanting to move in, artistically, (read that with a posh accent), is towards unique, hand-crafted outerwear. An intersection between art and function, spanning both. 

In school, I was allowed to be completely immersed in art for art’s sake; making and experimenting and not worrying about a bottom line any more serious than my letter grade. Post-school, thrown into the (lack of) job market, working in a coffee shop, I became very concerned with commercial uses and marketability– making things I could SELL. Now I feel like I’m coming back to some middle way. I think art students are often underserved on learning marketing, branding and survival, but I also think being passionate about your work is important, and that if you do something that bores you just because you can sell it, both you and your work will ultimately suffer. 

 

This philosophical moment brought to you by Ponds Cold Cream.

 

Anyway, coats. And no, I still haven’t finished the purple patchy coat. It’s been the learning-horse, and largely what I learned was that I need to be able to make my garments from scratch and to design them myself from the ground up to get the result I want. So it’s sitting unfinished for the moment, though I plan to finish it at that elusive time we know as “someday.”

So I took a basic coats/jackets class and finally attempted my first coat, from a commercial pattern and everything! Woo!

I bought this pattern, largely because I have a weakness for stand-collars and double-breasted styles:

Image

I bought a gorgeous, but complicated, damask-print canvas fabric. I also, at the urging of awesome-teacher Diana, decided to pipe the seams– a new trick for me, which I love and now I want to pipe everything. Piping for all! Piping on underwear! Piping on the dog!

 

Piping!

Image

Progress pockets… and more piping! The lining is a gorgeous orange. I should have matched the lining and piping but the piping was a last-minute decision, so it is red. This is not a mistake, this is a bold artistic choice!Image

 

I took a few more progress shots but they looked pretty dull so I shan’t include them. Suffice it to say this beast took a while. Matching the print alone took the better part of a day, and then once I put the coat together I realized it needed all sorts of alterations. Next time I will make a muslin for sure– I have learned my lesson!! I took in the sides, sleeves, bust and back, and there are more alterations I will probably add on if I ever make a version of this pattern again. So there are lots of “learning moments” on this coat, (like the hem. That hem and learning to line the thing nearly killed me) but overall, for my first coat ever, I’m pretty pleased. 

Finished coat, with neck unbuttoned. I disagree with this pattern detail, by the way. It leaves a strange gap in between the collar and front facing and if I make it again I think I’ll just join the collar and facing. I’d also extend the other side of the collar so the wrap and are symmetrical, but I like big high collars. It just looks weird to me with the one side longer than the other and hanging open like that.

Image

And buttoned. I like the look of it when closed. I opted for buttons just on the closure, rather than the intended double-row down the front. It just seemed too busy with both rows of buttons, and I rather liked the asymmetry.

Image

Detail.

Image

 

 

Partially open, I like the “lapel” effect but again, that top collar piece bugs me. Oh well. 

Image

Sexy rich orange lining. Next time I will add a back-pleat to the lining– it could use it for ease. 

Image

Action shots!

Image

I took about 4 inches out of the back– it was a pretty shapeless coat at first. 

 

Image

Image 

Image

 

Ta-Da!

Thanks to Diana and Better Living Through Sewing for the help and guidance. If you live in the Bay Area and want to sew I highly recommend her classes. Plus, it turns out she went to the same high school in Boulder that I did. Funny ol’ world, innit?

 

 

Standard
New Stuff, Works in Progress

Philosophical musings and a new coat project…

This “have a clothing line” business is crazy, and I am constantly discovering that I am not following, or often even aware of, the rules. I don’t release collections on a seasonal schedule– largely because it’s just me here and I seem to get too distracted to be on a such a calendar, but also because I like releasing things whenever I damn well feel like it and whenever I get the photos done.  I do not read fashion magazines or follow fashion blogs. I find that a lot of “fashion” doesn’t interest me that much, the same way that much of what was in the galleries in NYC while I was in school left me cold. Don’t get me wrong, there is some beautiful stuff coming out of the design houses (especially the haute couture stuff, when everyone is allowed to get weird), but I guess it doesn’t seem all that relevant to my world most of the time. Maybe because I really, really don’t like it when clothes are described as chic.

I like clothes with a narrative. I like costumey pieces. Not in a cheap Halloween-store way, but in the sense of a piece that builds your character, even if it’s just your character of the moment. I like clothes that I am excited to put on– these are my warrior leggings, my gypsy pants, my empress dress, my pixie skirt, my fairy tale jacket. I find cosplay generally much more exciting and inspirational than high fashion.

Speaking of cosplay, a wonderful thing about that genre is the DIY nature of it. I love seeing the incredible things people create, and so many of them share process photos the whole way. Ask Versace to do that! Somehow, the open, community attitude of the cosplay culture doesn’t ruin the mystery or monument of the final piece at all; it serves to make it more personal somehow. By the final reveal I am INVESTED in how that Skyrim armor came out!

Right, that’s a lot of rambling; I’ve been getting very philosophical lately on the nature of my work. It is clear to me I MUST MAKE STUFF; the question is what to make, why make it, and where does it go? Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

So…I’m finally starting in on a project I’ve had in mind for a long time; coats. Technicolor dreamcoats, actually. I’m going to take a class on making coats and jackets from scratch, as I would like to learn more tailoring and be able to make whatever I want, but I also have an interest in reviving old coats; working magic with something pre-existing, something with history. Very green, right?  Coats and jackets are probably my favorite garment in existence. There’s something wonderful about a good coat. NOTE: This may be my years as an angsty goth teenager rearing their black-lipsticked, dog-collar wearing heads, the years when a coat (black, trench) was both fashion statement and security blanket. Never mind that…

The crux of the project, however, even more than just foraying into a new garment, is to dig back into my fine art roots. I have been wanting to experiment with taking some of the techniques, ideas and moods of my paintings and apply them to my clothing. Make some pieces that are truly unique and unrepeatable; blur the lines between art and attire. Spend more time on one truly fantastic creation and really go all-out on it, rather than concern myself with it being easily reproducible. Sounds a bit like my rant about the faun costume from last year, doesn’t it? Hmmm I sense a theme.

Anyway, I’ve never done this before, so despite all my pretty thoughts it may all go down in flames. Boom.  It’s all learning, right? LET’S MAKE SOMETHING, PEOPLE!

Right, so I found this coat in my basement:

Image

I bought it at a thrift store in Boulder a few years ago when I was suddenly invited to an Bacchanalian revelry in the mountains and had nothing warm to wear. It has nice bones, but the lining is kind of ratty, I don’t love the color, it’s too big and it smells a bit like mothballs. See why it’s been in the basement?

First I removed the lining, then cut off part of the hem. I should have done this later, but I didn’t realize what else I was going to do to the thing and just jumped in. Ah well. Somewhere in this process I started ripping out the seams on the sleeves, which resulted in a very flappy coat, which resulted in a fit of silliness. The dogs are clearly working hard to contain their wild enthusiasm for my sweet moves. 

Anyway, it was too long for my tastes, so I cut off the front to give it a shorter-front/long-back hem. Then I altered it a bit– the shoulders fit fine, but the whole body was too big, so I took in the side and back seams to slim it down to fit me. Then I decided I couldn’t stand the color and dyed the thing. This took about 3 dye baths, which made the cut hem go all scraggly– see, should have done that last. Here it is, sans buttons and with gross hem. Weird cuff details have been removed, as have the belt loops (I don’t like belts on my coats)

It’s a much more interesting color now– sort of a mottled deep purple. Also it no longer smells funny.

Image

On to the artsy part. My concept for this coat actually came from a dream I had recently. In classic dream style, it doesn’t really translate well, but a key feature was that I had a dragon. A purple/blue iridescent DRAGON. Yes, I am about 8 years old, what? Anyway, I shan’t bore you with my subconscious, but the end result is that I want to make a dragon-rider coat–something that draws from fantasy armor designs and might both decorate the rider and also blend and match them to their dragon. Nerd alert, I know.

Some rough sketches:

Image

I am very inspired by Selene Gibbous’ work, along with some other textile, quilt and collage artists I’ve been looking at recently and wanted to try a fabric collage technique. Something that will allow me to use fabric more like I use paint. I have no idea what I’m doing, as this is a new technique for me, but nothing else to do but jump in and pray you don’t muck it up too badly.

Here it is as I start to lay down fabric. I drew chalk lines to block out the general shape. I’ve removed the sleeves and undone the side-back seams for ease of movement with the machine.

Image

Close up of this panel. It’s more or less done I think, but I keep coming back to pieces and adding more as I go.

Image

Image

Starting at the middle back, I’ve been working my way down and around. I think there will be more to the back, but it made the most sense to keep moving around the body at the time. Here are the back and side panels.

6

2

Here’s the chalk-marks sketching in one of the front panels.

1

And the panels coming together…

13

10

…And more detail shots of the whole piece…

14

15

11

12

So far I’m only about halfway around the body and haven’t even touched the sleeves yet. Long way to go. It’s been really interesting and satisfying so far though– it is wonderful to play with the fabric in such an organic way.

Standard